Make the pastry. Rub the butter into the flour and salt until sandy, stir through the Parmesan, then bring together with the yolk and just enough water. Flatten to a disc, wrap and chill 30 minutes.

Line and chill. Roll to 3mm and line four 10cm tartlet tins, pressing well into the corners. Freeze for 20 minutes — straight from the freezer is what stops the sides slumping.

Blind bake. Bake at 190C / 170C fan with paper and beans for 15 minutes, then uncovered for 6-8 minutes until deep golden. Cool completely in the tins.

Roast it. Rub the breasts with oil, salt and pepper and roast skin-side up at 200C / 180C fan for 20-22 minutes until just cooked. Rest 10 minutes, then shred the meat and crumble the crisp skin separately.

Make the Caesar cream. Mash the anchovies and garlic to a paste. Whisk in the yolks, mustard and lemon, then add the oil in a thin stream, whisking constantly, until thick and glossy. Stir in the Parmesan and plenty of pepper. If it splits, start a fresh yolk and whisk the split mixture into it slowly.

Fill. Spoon Caesar cream into each cooled case, then pile in the shredded chicken and press it down lightly.

Dress the top. Tuck in baby gem leaves, add croutons and the crumbled chicken skin, then stand a parmesan crisp upright.

Finish with lemon zest and a last grating of Parmesan, and serve while the pastry is crisp.