Squeeze the spinach dry. Wring it in a clean tea towel until no more water comes out, then squeeze again. This is the single thing that decides whether the filling is molten or watery, and wet spinach is what makes the pastry soggy underneath.

Beat the cream cheese until smooth, then mix in the mozzarella, Parmesan, garlic, nutmeg and the spinach. Season well with salt and plenty of black pepper.

Hold back the dip. Spoon a third of the mixture into a small ovenproof bowl and set it aside - that is the bowl you serve alongside. The rest fills the tree.

Heat the oven to 200°C / 180°C fan and line a large baking tray.

Lay one pastry sheet on the tray. Spread the remaining filling evenly over it, leaving a 1cm border, then lay the second sheet on top and press the edges to seal.

Cut the rectangle into a tall triangle, keeping a small rectangle at the base for the trunk. Lift the offcuts away.

Slice in from each long edge towards the centre at 2cm intervals, stopping 1cm short of the middle so a spine holds it together.

Twist each branch twice. The twist is what opens up the spirals of spinach and cheese along the edges while the uncut spine keeps the tree in one piece.

Brush all over with beaten egg and bake 20–22 minutes, until deep golden and puffed, with the cheese bubbling at the cut edges.

Warm the dip. Loosen the reserved filling with the creme fraiche or milk, top with a little Parmesan and pepper, and put it in the oven for the last 10 minutes so it is molten when the tree comes out.

Mix the melted butter with the garlic and parsley and brush it over the hot tree, then finish with Parmesan and flaky salt. Serve straight from the tray with the warm dip alongside, while the middle is still stretchy.