Line the moulds. Stand six 8cm ring moulds on a lined tray and fit a food-safe plastic collar inside each one, overlapping the ends. Leave the bottoms uncovered. One large 12-14cm ring also works if you would rather slice it at the table.

Press in the base. Mix the crushed rye crackers, pumpkin seeds and melted butter, then divide between the rings and press firmly flat with the base of a small glass. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Blend it smooth. Blitz the ricotta and smoked salmon until smooth, then mix in the cream cheese, lemon zest, dill and black pepper. Smoked salmon is salty, so taste before you add any salt.

Bloom the gelatine. Sprinkle it over the 30ml cold water in a heatproof bowl and leave 5 minutes, or follow the packet. Set the bowl over hot water and stir until dissolved - do not let it boil.

Temper it in. Stir 2-3 spoonfuls of the filling into the dissolved gelatine first, then mix that straight back into the rest of the filling. Poured the other way, or into a fridge-cold filling, the gelatine seizes into threads.

Fill and smooth. Divide the filling between the chilled bases, tapping the tray on the worktop to drive out air pockets, then smooth each top flat with a palette knife dipped in hot water.

Set it overnight. Refrigerate on the tray overnight. The gelatine needs the full night to cut cleanly; a few hours will not do it. A large ring needs the same.

Unmould. Run a thin knife around the inside of each ring, lift it straight up slowly, then peel the collar away.

Dress the top. Pipe or spoon the softened cream cheese over the surface, then add the extra smoked salmon, cucumber ribbons, capers, dill, lemon zest, a spoonful of roe and the seeded cracker.

Serve cold. Keep it refrigerated and decorate just before serving.