Line the mould. Sit a tall 12-14cm ring mould on a flat plate and fit a food-safe plastic cake collar against the inside walls, overlapping the ends. Leave the bottom uncovered.

Press it in. Mix the crushed taralli, pistachios and melted butter until it looks like damp sand, then press firmly into the base with a small flat-bottomed glass. Use butter rather than oil: oil will not set and the base will crumble when you cut it. Chill 30 minutes.

Blend the cheeses. Blitz the ricotta, feta, cream cheese and Parmesan until completely smooth.

Bloom the gelatine. Sprinkle it over the cold water and leave 5 minutes, then warm gently until dissolved without letting it boil. Slacken it with 2-3 spoonfuls of the cheese mixture first, then mix that back into the rest — added straight, it seizes into threads.

Split the mixture. Set aside a quarter of the white mixture. Blend the sun-dried tomatoes and basil to a paste and stir into the remaining three quarters. If either is runny, chill briefly until thick enough to spoon.

Build the hidden layer. Spread half the orange filling over the chilled base. Spoon the white mixture into the centre, leaving an orange border all the way round, then cover gently with the rest of the orange. Smooth the top.

Set it. Refrigerate overnight in the mould. It needs the full night to slice cleanly.

Unmould. Lift the ring away and peel off the collar.

Decorate and serve chilled, with whipped ricotta or burrata, roasted cherry tomatoes, pistachios, basil, a slick of olive oil and a Parmesan crisp. Roast the tomatoes and make the crisp separately — the cheesecake itself never sees the oven.